Find breed specific information & see our dogs here:Basic Information
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Now that we've touched on the importance of crates, it's time to talk about variety. The two most common ones on the pet market are the wire crates with a plastic slide out pan, or the solid plastic with a metal or plastic front, usually called an airline crate. When purchasing a crate for a puppy, you want one that is just big enough for them to stand and lay down comfortably, and for that, I usually recommend a wire crate with a divider so you can adjust the size of it as your puppy grows. Puppies that have a lot of extra space in the crate are more inclined to have accidents in them. A crate should be a cozy den, not an empty mansion! Both of the aforementioned crates usually work great until about 6 months of age, when some puppies begin to realize just how strong and smart they are. Some of them just pop the panels out of place and that can be solved with zip ties, while others take a brute force approach and bend the wires until they can squeeze out. If your dog is escaping set up cameras to make sure it is boredom or enrichment seeking and not something more serious. If you are unsure please send the video to me and I can put you in touch with our trainer.
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Not all puppies are crate testers, but if you find yourself with one that enjoys the challenge of escaping, don't worry, there is a solution! There are many heavy duty dog crates on the market, but not all are created equal. The Empire Pro Select (pictured) is tried and true for even the most destructive dogs. A bonus feature for the Empires is the extra layer between the dog and the tray, so if they have an accident, it simply falls to the bottom, and that's one less mess to deal with. TNC Crates; Rock Creek Crates; and Zinger Crates make amazing solid sided metal crates. They designed in a way that makes it hard for your dog to get their teeth and paws gripped on the crate or anything on the outside, like your walls and carpets. They also come in a wide variety of colors and can be customized to suit your living space!
It is better to buy an expensive crate once, rather than buy a knock off, twice. Make the investment and your crate will last you for the life of your dog and you need never worry about coming home to a disaster! |
Now lets talk about yards. Northern breeds are more than capable of clearing a 6 foot fence, or digging under one as fast as you can let them outside while you brew a cup of coffee, and poof, your dog is gone! Nordic breeds are more than capable of clearing a 6 foot fence, or digging under one as fast as you can let them outside while you brew a cup of coffee, and poof, your dog is gone! Dog should not be left in a yard unsupervised unless wolfdog style containment has been provided. What is wolfdog style containment? Containment should be 8 feet tall, or 6 feet with lean ins or a solid roof, and constructed of a heavy gauge steel, like hog or cattle panels. They also need dig guards, usually the same fencing laid on the ground and attached to the bottom of the side panels, to prevent them from tunneling out. The spacing is pretty wide on these so it won't hold a puppy, but it's perfect for adolescent and adult animals. Other people have used game fencing coupled with hot (electrified) wiring, but I don't have as much experience in that style of pen. While accidents can happen, as owners you have to do your best to stay one step ahead of them, not behind. For the average dog, all of those elements are not needed. Supervision is your first and best line of defense, if you notice your dog trying to escape in a specific way, address both the root cause of their behavior and install appropriate counter measures.
Grooming / Shedding
The first thing you need to know about their grooming requirements is that these animals shed, and they shed year round! With weekly brushing and quality diet, the amount they shed can be drastically reduced, but fur is a way of life with these animals. If you don't like fur on your clothes, your carpet, or really anywhere else, these animals may not be for you. If you're getting one of our pups listed as a plush or long coat, you'll be in for a bit more brushing than the shorter coated pups will require, so keep that in mind when selecting your puppy!
Shedding is especially bad for about a 2 week period when the seasons change, from spring to winter and winter to spring. You'll find your gorgeous, fluffy dog is now a scrawny looking rat when they drop their heavy winter coat for a lighter summer coat. Don't despair, it grows back! Daily brushing can be required during this period, or, if you're like me, you'll cheat and hire a groomer. We get what is called a coat blowout, or a deshedding. This is usually a combination of a bath, followed by a thorough brushing and a heavy duty blow dryer freeing all up that loose fur, and if you get a good groomer, you'll hardly have any shedding for weeks afterwards! Groomer-quality shampoos and tools can be purchased for home use. We recommend rakes, slicker brushes, greyhound combs and a force dryer. Furminator deshed brushes are not recommended as they can damage the coat. Do NOT allow a groomer to shave your dog ! Never, ever shave a double coated dog. You can permanently damage their coat and you expose them to greater risk of heat stroke, sun burn, and associated cancers. If you don't like the fur, this is not the breed for you. As long as you keep your dog brushed and free of matted fur there should not be a reason to shave your dog unless recommended by a veterinarian. Youtube has excellent videos on how to line brush your dogs to make sure all loose fur is removed to prevent matting and pelting.
For bathing, I will typically only bathe the dogs if they are exceptionally, visibly dirty or stinky, or if they are going on an outing I'll give them a good bath. This may seem cruel to some, but when you give them a bath, you are stripping their coat of essential oils that keep their skin from drying out. As long as the coat is free of tangles and mats, and dirt isn't caked on, you more than likely have a happy dog. Again, a good diet cuts down the natural doggy odor all dogs have, and a brush down with a small amount of baking soda can also get out that doggy odor. I don't recommend more than monthly baths, but your puppies from us will be well-versed in the ways of grooming before they come to you. Make sure to use a shampoo made for dogs, their skin is a different ph than ours and is more sensitive. Groomer quality products may look more expensive up front, but they usually highly concentrated and meant to be watered down which also results in them being cheaper long term. They also tend to be better for your dog's skin and coat while also offering a variety of additional benefits to choose from.
Nails should be trimmed as needed, if you can hear them clicking on the floor, it is probably time for a trim! We do this with a basic pair of scissor-style clippers, invest in a good quality pair because when your puppy matures, those nails can be hard as diamonds! We like the Millers Forge brand, or the Safari brand for most of our grooming tools. Nails should not touch the floor while your dog is standing and relaxed. Overly long nails cause your dog to change how they are standing which, over time, leads to arthritis and joint damage.
As far as teeth brushing, I have never once in all my years of dog ownership brushed a dog's teeth. Raw bones are excellent at doing this for you, and all our dogs have fantastic teeth. I can see this practice perhaps for dogs too small or old to crunch bones, but I see no reason to brush a dogs teeth. I'm happy to take pictures of our oldest dog's smile for you, and you can see how great they look for yourself! If you are uncomfortable with raw bones or if your dog chews them inappropriately, The Veterinary Oral Health Council provides a free list of dental items that are proven to help with dental health, click here.
Shedding is especially bad for about a 2 week period when the seasons change, from spring to winter and winter to spring. You'll find your gorgeous, fluffy dog is now a scrawny looking rat when they drop their heavy winter coat for a lighter summer coat. Don't despair, it grows back! Daily brushing can be required during this period, or, if you're like me, you'll cheat and hire a groomer. We get what is called a coat blowout, or a deshedding. This is usually a combination of a bath, followed by a thorough brushing and a heavy duty blow dryer freeing all up that loose fur, and if you get a good groomer, you'll hardly have any shedding for weeks afterwards! Groomer-quality shampoos and tools can be purchased for home use. We recommend rakes, slicker brushes, greyhound combs and a force dryer. Furminator deshed brushes are not recommended as they can damage the coat. Do NOT allow a groomer to shave your dog ! Never, ever shave a double coated dog. You can permanently damage their coat and you expose them to greater risk of heat stroke, sun burn, and associated cancers. If you don't like the fur, this is not the breed for you. As long as you keep your dog brushed and free of matted fur there should not be a reason to shave your dog unless recommended by a veterinarian. Youtube has excellent videos on how to line brush your dogs to make sure all loose fur is removed to prevent matting and pelting.
For bathing, I will typically only bathe the dogs if they are exceptionally, visibly dirty or stinky, or if they are going on an outing I'll give them a good bath. This may seem cruel to some, but when you give them a bath, you are stripping their coat of essential oils that keep their skin from drying out. As long as the coat is free of tangles and mats, and dirt isn't caked on, you more than likely have a happy dog. Again, a good diet cuts down the natural doggy odor all dogs have, and a brush down with a small amount of baking soda can also get out that doggy odor. I don't recommend more than monthly baths, but your puppies from us will be well-versed in the ways of grooming before they come to you. Make sure to use a shampoo made for dogs, their skin is a different ph than ours and is more sensitive. Groomer quality products may look more expensive up front, but they usually highly concentrated and meant to be watered down which also results in them being cheaper long term. They also tend to be better for your dog's skin and coat while also offering a variety of additional benefits to choose from.
Nails should be trimmed as needed, if you can hear them clicking on the floor, it is probably time for a trim! We do this with a basic pair of scissor-style clippers, invest in a good quality pair because when your puppy matures, those nails can be hard as diamonds! We like the Millers Forge brand, or the Safari brand for most of our grooming tools. Nails should not touch the floor while your dog is standing and relaxed. Overly long nails cause your dog to change how they are standing which, over time, leads to arthritis and joint damage.
As far as teeth brushing, I have never once in all my years of dog ownership brushed a dog's teeth. Raw bones are excellent at doing this for you, and all our dogs have fantastic teeth. I can see this practice perhaps for dogs too small or old to crunch bones, but I see no reason to brush a dogs teeth. I'm happy to take pictures of our oldest dog's smile for you, and you can see how great they look for yourself! If you are uncomfortable with raw bones or if your dog chews them inappropriately, The Veterinary Oral Health Council provides a free list of dental items that are proven to help with dental health, click here.
Diet and Feeding Recommendations
Northern breed diets aren't as difficult as you might think! Here we feed a combination of kibble and a raw diet.
Contrary to popular belief, bones aren't harmful to dogs, as long as they are not cooked or weight baring! Cooking makes the bones susceptible to splintering in their stomachs, creating sharp edges and potentially a large vet bill or death! Weight baring bones, think legs, are very hard and can break teeth if your dog does more than nibble off the meat. If you are going to feed a raw diet it is extremely important to feed a balanced diet. "Ratio diets" that give a basic formula (eg 80/10/10 or "prey model" or "BARF") are not balanced and can cause nutrient deficiencies in your dog long term, in puppies they can also cause life long complications. I suggest the facebook group Raw Fed & Nerdy as a resource for leaning about how to put together a balanced raw or home cooked diet.
For kibble, we use Victor for the most part. If you are going to feed an all-kibble diet, a quality kibble is a must. It can extend the good health of your dog, it helps keep shedding to a minimum, and best of all, they poop less because more of the kibble is actually being absorbed, and you feed less of a quality kibble than you'd have to for a cheap, grocery store type brand. We understand that some of the most top of the line brands can be out of the budget, but there are plenty of brands that have a good rating that won't break the bank, either. 4Health is a brand sold by Tractor Supply and is another good one. We are also happy to help answer any questions you may have on kibble selection. The facebook group Dog Food Nerds of Facebook is excellent for looking up reviews and asking for suggestions as well.
Contrary to popular belief, bones aren't harmful to dogs, as long as they are not cooked or weight baring! Cooking makes the bones susceptible to splintering in their stomachs, creating sharp edges and potentially a large vet bill or death! Weight baring bones, think legs, are very hard and can break teeth if your dog does more than nibble off the meat. If you are going to feed a raw diet it is extremely important to feed a balanced diet. "Ratio diets" that give a basic formula (eg 80/10/10 or "prey model" or "BARF") are not balanced and can cause nutrient deficiencies in your dog long term, in puppies they can also cause life long complications. I suggest the facebook group Raw Fed & Nerdy as a resource for leaning about how to put together a balanced raw or home cooked diet.
For kibble, we use Victor for the most part. If you are going to feed an all-kibble diet, a quality kibble is a must. It can extend the good health of your dog, it helps keep shedding to a minimum, and best of all, they poop less because more of the kibble is actually being absorbed, and you feed less of a quality kibble than you'd have to for a cheap, grocery store type brand. We understand that some of the most top of the line brands can be out of the budget, but there are plenty of brands that have a good rating that won't break the bank, either. 4Health is a brand sold by Tractor Supply and is another good one. We are also happy to help answer any questions you may have on kibble selection. The facebook group Dog Food Nerds of Facebook is excellent for looking up reviews and asking for suggestions as well.
As long as you're feeding a balanced diet with whatever option you choose, there isn't much need for vitamins and supplements. However, we like to see our dogs looking and feeling their very best, so they are typically given some additives on top of their regular diet. Some things we use are coconut oil, cranberry extract, canine red cell, b12, yogurt, and in the event of an upset stomach, we give charcoal tablets and canned pumpkin. If you have some approaching middle age or older, glucosamine is another great additive.
We have also heard of others having success with the pre-packaged diets you can buy in the frozen or refrigerated sections of pet stores, but we haven't used them ourselves, so please do your own research, we'd be happy to hear about the results!
We have also heard of others having success with the pre-packaged diets you can buy in the frozen or refrigerated sections of pet stores, but we haven't used them ourselves, so please do your own research, we'd be happy to hear about the results!
Toys, Treats, and Exercise
Most of my pack loves toys! The trouble is, they probably love them too much. It's hard to find something they won't destroy in minutes. I've had decent luck with the Kong products but for the most part, you'll have better luck making your own toys and treats. I'll get a Large or XL Kong and stuff it with organ meat, carrots, coconut oil, and freeze it and give this to them in the morning, usually providing a few hours of entertainment. However, it does make a mess, so if your dog is indoors, you may want to stuff it with dry kibble instead! There are a variety of puzzle toys on the market but they aren't something you can leave unattended, as small plastic bits are likely to be chewed. If you notice signs of wear and tear on toys, it's time to throw it out! An exception to this is stuffed toys; If they tear a hole in one, I'll usually take out all the stuffing and give it back, unless they are tearing the entire thing into pieces. If they can swallow it, it's gone. No toy is worth an expensive trip to the emergency vet if they have an obstruction in their stomach or bowels from swallowing things they shouldn't!
For small treats for training/positive reinforcement, we usually bake off some organ meats so they aren't so slimy and can be diced into small bits. You don't want them to get full off treats, or risk giving too much and upsetting their stomach. We also use hot dogs diced very small, or bits of cheese, if that's what the dog prefers. There are also some good treats available in stores, and just like with dog food, anything that is primarily meat is going to be your best bet. Look for the trifecta of small, soft and smelly.
However, all the mental stimulation in the world won't do them much good if they don't get any exercise! They are active and intelligent. If you don't spend time with them, they will get bored, and they'll find ways to entertain themselves. Most owners aren't amused with the 'shred all the drywall in the house' game, but the animal didn't ask to be left at home for hours on end, either. YOU made a commitment to THEM, not the other way around.
For small treats for training/positive reinforcement, we usually bake off some organ meats so they aren't so slimy and can be diced into small bits. You don't want them to get full off treats, or risk giving too much and upsetting their stomach. We also use hot dogs diced very small, or bits of cheese, if that's what the dog prefers. There are also some good treats available in stores, and just like with dog food, anything that is primarily meat is going to be your best bet. Look for the trifecta of small, soft and smelly.
However, all the mental stimulation in the world won't do them much good if they don't get any exercise! They are active and intelligent. If you don't spend time with them, they will get bored, and they'll find ways to entertain themselves. Most owners aren't amused with the 'shred all the drywall in the house' game, but the animal didn't ask to be left at home for hours on end, either. YOU made a commitment to THEM, not the other way around.
Pest Control: Dealing with fleas, ticks, worms, and other parasites
While your puppy from us will come dewormed every 2 weeks from birth, it is important to maintain this practice to a lesser extent throughout their lives, especially if they are fed raw, or frequent places wild animals may be present. Talk to your veterinarian and check out the Pet Disease Alerts map, click here, to see what is needed in your area.
For our adults and puppies older than 8 weeks, we dust their fur in food grade diatomaceous earth, and put a few teaspoons of it in their dishes. This natural product kills parasites inside and out, and it is very safe as long as you're cautious not to get it in their eyes. It is an extremely fine powder, so make sure you do it outside in a well ventilated area, as it isn't good to breathe it in, either. You can use the same product to treat carpet and other soft surfaces in your home, should you develop a bug problem.
For younger puppies, we usually alternate Panacur liquid and Sentry liquid dewormer. Not every product will kill all varieties of worms, and you don't want them building a tolerance if you use the same product over and over. For fleas, Advantage, Frontline, and similar products work well, but we do not recommend Trifexis; Some animals in this line have shown a sensitivity to it, resulting in hair loss and seizures. Heartgard is still the best for heartworm preventative, as far as we know. Do not purchase the Hartz brand products as they have been reported to cause many adverse outcomes, including death.
For our adults and puppies older than 8 weeks, we dust their fur in food grade diatomaceous earth, and put a few teaspoons of it in their dishes. This natural product kills parasites inside and out, and it is very safe as long as you're cautious not to get it in their eyes. It is an extremely fine powder, so make sure you do it outside in a well ventilated area, as it isn't good to breathe it in, either. You can use the same product to treat carpet and other soft surfaces in your home, should you develop a bug problem.
For younger puppies, we usually alternate Panacur liquid and Sentry liquid dewormer. Not every product will kill all varieties of worms, and you don't want them building a tolerance if you use the same product over and over. For fleas, Advantage, Frontline, and similar products work well, but we do not recommend Trifexis; Some animals in this line have shown a sensitivity to it, resulting in hair loss and seizures. Heartgard is still the best for heartworm preventative, as far as we know. Do not purchase the Hartz brand products as they have been reported to cause many adverse outcomes, including death.